Red Carnuntum: cracking the Zweigelt-Blaufränkisch dichotomy

Let’s not nag about the terroirs, the soils and the history of Carnuntum, an Austrian wine region on the way from Vienna to the border with Slovakia. Since you probably don’t get a bunch Carnuntum reds to taste where you live, it might be a good idea just to see what one can expect from these wines.

Into the DACness

Austria is mostly known for its whites, but Carnuntum is an exception — around 55% of wines are red with Blaufränkisch and Zweigelt being the dominating factors. The Carnuntum DAC (Districtus Austriae Controllatus, “controlled Austrian wine region”) is a pretty recent thing and was formed in 2019 and has just around 910 hectares under vine. Only twenty wineries of the region are today a part of ÖTW ERSTE LAGE organization which is developing VDP-like terroir-based classification to vineyards and wines. Yet, together these twenty estates cultivate almost half of Carnuntum’s area under vines.

The warm Pannonian climate tempered by cool breezes from the nearby forests and the Danube creates a great deal of balance between warmth and freshness — which is amazing for wines. To put it more directly, summers are hot and winters are cold here. It’s relatively dry, though, which is great for growing healthy grapes.

Of those healthy ones Zweigelt is the Carnuntum’s leading red variety, better suited to clay soils and warmer climate. Blaufränkisch works best in calcareous soils with good wind drafts.

Zweigelt

Zweigelt from Carnuntum’s lower elevations, with heavy soils being the norm, flaunts its fruity and refreshing aromas like it’s trying too hard to be the life of the party. At higher elevations you’ll get a darker, more robust wine that seems to think it’s the serious, brooding type. If you’re into gravel-rich soils expect masculine tannins that practically scream “I’m tough.” Fancy limestone vineyards produce wines that are all about being tightly knit and refined as if they’re too good for the rough-and-tumble crowd.

Weingut Robert Payr
2019 Ried Steinäcker Carnuntum DAC 1ÖTW

This is the dark side — both in color and essense. Still good freshness with juicy cherry and blueberry, some chocolate notes, spices & pepper.

Weingut Artner
2020 Ried Steinäcker Carnuntum DAC 1ÖTW

This outstanding and complex Zweigelt messes with your mind. It’s smoky and charred, but paradoxicaly light on the palate. Depth and beauty.

Weingut Familie Pitnauer
2020 Ried Haidacker Carnuntum DAC 1ÖTW

With 14.5% alcohol and 18 months in new and used barriques, this is lengthy and smoky. Loved herbal hints and ripe plums.

Blaufränkisch

Blaufränkisch, the second red grape of Carnuntum, produces different results in different soils: limestone gives Blaufränkisch wines a lean character with a silky texture, while in the gravel- and clay-rich soils it produces a more masculine style.

Weingut Michael Auer
2021 Ried Aubühl Carnuntum DAC 1ÖTW

Juicy & elegant, herbal & spicy. Quite a tannin. Sweetness, with some salty finish.

Weingut Pelzmann
2020 Ried Spitzerberg Carnuntum DAC 1ÖTW

Bursts with juicy, semi-dried fruit and smoky aromas, reminiscent of dark chocolate and cherry. Slight sourness to the fruit.

Weingut Dorli Muhr
2019 Ried Spitzerberg Kobeln Liebkind Carnuntum DAC 1ÖTW

Smoky, on the thin side. Cherry. Structured. Brisk and lively. Begs for meat.

Weingut Böheim
2017 Ried Stixbergen

Vibrant color, dark core. Packed with intense fruit: smoky blackberry, some roasted notes.

The bottom line

Well, what to say? The 7 Carnuntum reds I tasted are definitely on the intense and concentrated side and no wonder — all of them are coming from Rieds — classified single vineyards. While some reach “dangerous” levels of alcohol, most hang around way more pleasant 13,5%. The “classic” profile of most wines is obvious, there’s no place for experiemnts or lighthearted approach — which is actually a pity. Still, these reds are well-crafted and definitely made for food and not just any old food — a good restaunrat level food. They want complex sauces, braised lamb and complex sides, not easy fingerfood.

Keep that in mind.