Just like heaven: the magic of Elvio Cogno wines

Didn’t wise folks tell you not to worship anyone? But sometimes you just can’t resist. It felt wrong to discuss it during the pandemic, but now seems like the perfect time to say: if it’s not the best, it’s definitely one of the finest wines Piedmont has to offer.

It’s not just about Barolo, of course. Cogno’s “simpler” wines—what they call “everyday wines”—are shining like their top bottlings. White Nascetta and reds like Barbera and Nebbiolo are the varieties of choice here. And it’s not just about “terroir expression,” as winemakers like to say; it’s an expression of the winemaker’s character, beliefs, and feelings. When winemakers don’t truly believe in wines they make, they’re not winemakers—they’re technitians. What’s the point of wine with no story behind it? None, really.

I’ve come to a conclusion that everyone named Valter in Piedmont makes great wine. There’s Valter Anselma from Schiavenza in Serralunga, and now Valter Fissore and his wife Nadia from the Ravera Hills—technically, Ravera MGA. Sure, it’s easy to refer to them as the “greats,” and throw around the word “superb,” but that’d be an oversimplification, inability to put words where they belong and mean something. And words SHOULD mean something.

Before he started making his own wine, Elvio Cogno—Valter’s father-in-law and the winery’s founder—ran a restaurant in La Morra, Ristorante dell’Angelo. Back then he didn’t think much about winemaking, even though the Cogno family had always grown grapes. In the ’60s, Elvio began working with the Marcarini winery in La Morra, focusing on Brunate hill. The first Marcarini-Cogno Barolo was from the 1961 vintage, and in 1964, Elvio did something unheard of at the time—he put the vineyard name onto the label.

Eventually, in the 1980s, Elvio, originally from Novello, decided to try his hand at the region’s most popular occupation—at the age of 60! This is how Elvio Cogno winery was born in Novello, with the purchase of the Cascina Nuova estate, which boasts an absolutely stunning view of both Novello and Barolo. Their first Nebbiolo harvest happened in 1991.

Bloody Sunset in Nebbiolo Rosé Style

Even if you don’t know the estate’s history, you can feel it—some special wines must be coming from here. Too many Nebbiolos in Piedmont are made in the “American” oak-aged style. Adding to the complexity (or the intrigue) is the fact that Nebbiolo isn’t just Nebbiolo. Winemakers distinguish between Nebbiolo Michet, Nebbiolo Rosé, and Nebbiolo Lampia. The latter is used in most wines, but Elvio Cogno’s top Barolo, Vigna Elena, is made from the rare Nebbiolo Rosé, a variety close to but not identical to Lampia. Nebbiolo Rosé evokes strong, often polarizing emotions among Piedmontese winemakers, but many simply don’t have access to it.

Look at the sunset again: Valter, a happy man, stands on the terrace of Cascina Nuova, bathed in the rays of the setting sun. His first “private” harvest was in 1996, when Elvio senior himself stepped down. The crazy beautiful pink of the setting sun is boosted by the breathtaking view of the snow-capped Alps rising in the distance. Their coldness is felt nowhere here, even though the winter of 2020 was one of the warmest in Piedmont’s history.

What strikes you about the winery? Simplicity and order—you won’t find a single thing out of place, not a stray pallet of wine, as you often do in more “creative” wineries. “I’ve been cleaning all day,” he laughs as he walks us between barrels. “I’m obsessed with order. If I waste time looking for wines or tools, there’s no time for anything else.” It’s hard to argue with that.

I first encountered Elvio Cogno in the summer of 2019. A personal revelation was the 2015 Barolo Ravera. At that time, I simply noted: “That’s it.” I had nothing more to add. This wine grabbed me and didn’t let go. Was it because of that elusive quality that’s so hard to describe—harmony? The word “balance” is too primitive and overused.

As always, there’s a technological trap waiting here because you can’t just ask, “How is this wine made?” and expect to find the reason for that harmony. Whether the barrels are “happy,” the terroir is unique, the clones are “right,” or whether Valter and Nadia do everything “by the book,” you can never fully pin it down to a single factor. What if the Moon and the stars were simply in the right order?

In any case, Elvio Cogno has plenty to surprise you with before you even taste the wine: the rare Nascetta (labeled in the old-fashioned way as Anas-Cëtta), pre-phylloxera Barbera, and of course, the flagship Barolo Ravera and Vigna Elena (named after Valter and Nadia’s daughter). The base Barolo Cascina Nuova is astounding, showing off the high quality bar of the winery. Among the winery’s unique features are long fermentations (up to two months for some wines), and use of untoasted Slavonian oak (also for Nascetta).

About that Nascetta

The murky liquid turns out to be a flavorful mix of pineapple juice, citrus, and crushed white peaches, with a wildly pleasing note of yeast aging. Valter is pouring the Anas-Cëtta 2019 straight from the barrel.

“I first tasted Nascetta thanks to Elvio, from the older vintages. ‘Why the hell do we need Chardonnay or Sauvignon in Piedmont when we have this?’ I thought at the time. Ten years later, we got a DOC for Nascetta, and now 30-40 wineries are making it. I’m very happy and proud of that.”

If you’re like me and want to uncover the hidden gems of Piedmont, Nascetta is the perfect candidate. It remains one of the world’s rarest varieties, found around just one town, Novello. Its red counterpart is Pelaverga, mostly found only around the town of Verduno; tasty as hell too!

As a grape variety Nascetta is inherently uneasy and capricious; its compact bunches attract gray rot and other diseases, and vines grow wildly in all directions. Yet, this one jumps out of the glass, even being defined as a semi-aromatic varietal. Then it goes on to tickle the palate—rough and tactile.

Nebbiolo Is Not Just Nebbiolo

What sets a self-conscious producer apart from the rest? It’s a tough question to answer. Let me try: all the wines are consistently great, from the basic to the top-tier. There’s no such thing as “one is great, the rest are just passable.” Point being is, even the “basic” Langhe Nebbiolo from Cogno will outshine some Barolos from lesser producers. It isn’t exactly news to anyone: unfortunately, some Barolos are just fillers for supermarket shelves.

Valter compares his Langhe Nebbiolo Montegrilli 2018 to Pinot Noir: 40% whole bunches are used from vineyards with southwestern exposure. Valter pours a barrel sample and observes our reaction with curiosity. He comments, “Some wines are good but knock you out; for me, a good wine is one you can drink the whole bottle of.” And this isn’t a suggestion to binge-drink: it’s got stunning harmony and juiciness, but it doesn’t mean you should go unrestrained.

The Juice of the Earth: Barbera

There’s no point in hiding that Barbera is crucial to Piedmont. It’s wildly important, particularly in the Asti zone, but also in Alba. The top Barolo producers make excellent Barbera d’Alba, typically with more definition, precision, and roundness than Barbera d’Asti, which usually has less ambition and more acidity. It’s not that Barbera is worse there, just that the attitude and marketing are different.

“Barbera is crucial for us,” Valter says, leaning into the conversation with the firmness of someone who’s seen it all. “It’s a traditional Piedmont varietal, once ubiquitous here, but often of shockingly low quality. The problem is that Barbera needs good sun exposure; its high acidity demands it. This acidity makes Barbera the perfect candidate for oak aging, as the barrel softens and integrates that sharpness into the wine. But now, Barbera’s going international, and not in a good way. Too often it’s over-aged, overly jammy, and, frankly, empty. The terroir is getting lost, and with it, lost is Barbera’s soul. Vines need to be in a dry location—they don’t like water nor humidity. Without acidity, Barbera loses its edge and just becomes, well, boring.” He pauses, pours a glass of their 2017 Barbera d’Alba Bricco Dei Merli, and smiles as we take in its high-octane aromatics, slightly sweet tannins, and that unmistakable hint of sun-burnt wild herbs. “This one’s special,” he says, almost to himself, as he reaches for the star of the tasting: a pre-phylloxera Barbera from 120-year-old vines.

Barbera d’Alba Pre-Phylloxera 2018: A Survivor’s Tale

The 2018 Barbera d’Alba Pre-Phylloxera (barrel sample) is nothing short of electrifying. It’s got this mouth tension, this crackling energy, bright berry aromatics, and those slightly sweet tannins that—kind of—hint at its ancient roots. The burning question, of course, is how on earth these vines survived when everything else around them was wiped out by phylloxera.

Valter’s answer? The red sandy soils, which somehow managed to fend off the aphids. “Marcarini had pre-phylloxera Dolcetto,” Valter adds. “In a blind tasting, some people even mistake this for Hermitage Syrah.”

With just 2,000 bottles produced, this wine is a rare treat, but is it better than “regular” Barbera? Valter hesitates. “It’s hard to compare different years and different vineyards,” he says diplomatically. Still, the fact that these wines exist at all is a small miracle in Piedmont.

Nebbiolo Takes Flight: The Barolos of Cogno

As impressive as the Barberas are, it’s the Barolos that truly define Elvio Cogno. If these wines don’t deliver, Valter suggests, there’s no point of the rest of the wines. His father, Elvio, worked tirelessly to elevate the hill of Ravera to its status as an iconic cru of Novello. Their Barolo Cascina Nuova 2016 comes from relatively young vines, only fifteen years old (in 2020). We step out onto the terrace as the sun dips below the hills, and Valter, ever pragmatic, admits, “This is a Barolo for those who don’t want to wait twenty years to drink it.” I can’t help but agree—who has the luxury of time? The wine is classic, elegant, with blueberry tones and not a hint of age.

Valter’s philosophy is simple: he gravitates towards traditional producers and shies away from the modern style, though he labels his approach as “postmodern.” It’s tradition, but with a twist. Many Barolos, he notes, start out extremely tannic but then fall apart over time. For Valter, the real progress happens in the vineyard, although, he admits, “People still make mistakes. I have no idea why.”

Their flagship wine, Barolo Ravera 2016, is the pinnacle of their efforts—a cru Barolo from 70-year-old vines. Valter, always precise, notes the blend: 60% Lampia, 40% Michet, with 24 months in big oak and a marathon 50-day fermentation. “I don’t want to throw around buzzwords,” he says, “but the texture of this wine is something special. It’s incredible, not because it’s mine, but because I could easily drink the whole bottle myself.” Describing the Ravera 2016 is like describing what isn’t there: no sharp edges, no irregular surfaces, just pure pleasure, minerality, and a lightness that feels almost ephemeral. It’s the kind of wine James Suckling would rate 102.

“In my opinion,” Valter adds, “you have to like a wine—even a young Barolo—immediately. You can’t just say, ‘Wait, it’ll get better.’ If the wine is good, it’s good from the start. People say, ‘Oh, the tannins will soften with time.’ No way. Green tannins stay green. If the wood overwhelms you at first, it’ll always be there. Sure, the wine’s harmony can evolve, but rough tannins and heavy wood? Those aren’t going away.”

Just then, Nadia sweeps into the room, her energy a perfect counterpoint to Valter’s seriousness. We’re tasting the Bricco Pernice Barolo Ravera 2015 now, another stunning achievement with dark fruit, 100% Lampia, and those signature slightly sweet tannins. It’s soft yet deep, a lingering Nebbiolo from a micro-cru within Ravera. With just 5,000 bottles produced, it’s the latest gem in their collection.

The Climax: Vigna Elena Barolo Riserva 2014

The conversation is winding down, but not before the grand finale: Vigna Elena Barolo Riserva 2014. This wine is a mystery, made from 100% Nebbiolo Rosé, a variety so closely related to Nebbiolo that it’s almost indistinguishable, yet with its own character. It’s not a clone but a separate variety, and those who have it, cherish it. Vigna Elena is maximalist in every way: made from just one hectare and only in exceptional years, aged six years in big oak, and dedicated to Valter and Nadia’s daughter. The wine is pure Burgundy in style—roses and flowers on the nose, but with a depth and complexity that’s unmistakably Piedmont. The playful chicken on the label belies the seriousness of what’s inside the bottle: spices, dried tomatoes, even a touch of gamey richness, with a finish that lasts an eternity. “It’s a different flavor of Barolo,” Valter observes in the quiet that follows.

Armed with bottles of Barolo and Nascetta, we reluctantly leave their vineyard, descending from paradise…

…back to the everyday world.